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Razmik's

Education

Welcome to the Razmik's Learning Center where we have compiled all kinds of information related to diamonds, platinum, silver and a whole lot more. We hope that this information will help you become a more informed consumer.

Gold

Its gold color and luster have enchanted people for centuries. The desire of people to adorn themselves in gold dates back to the time when civilization began in what is now modern day Iran/Iraq. Many attribute gold for being the motivation for opening up trade; man’s exploration of new lands and it has long been associated with a form of currency or monetary value. From gold’s earliest associations with gods, many of the metal’s applications were religious ceremonial objects and adornments. Even today, Egyptians refer to gold as the “child of the sun”. Being extremely malleable allows pure gold to be pounded flat into gold leaf as thin as 1/250,000 of an inch thick. Gold in its purest form doesn’t corrode, however, it is soft and scratches easily so therefore, molten gold is alloyed with other metals, to change gold’s hardness, appearance or color. Karat is a specific term used only with gold to describe its amount of fineness (absences of impurities) and amount of alloying metal (if present). A karat always refers to how many parts of gold is present in the gold alloy therefore, and it is expressed as a number, one karat represents 1/24th of purity. For example, 14 karat gold (14K) is 14 parts gold and 10 parts alloy. Although alloyed gold less valuable, it is more durable than pure gold. Therefore, 14K is more affordable than 18K and more durable than 18K, even though 18K is more valuable.

Karat (K) Percent of gold 10K 41.7%
12K 50.0%
14K 58.5%
18K 75.0%
22K 91.7%
24K 100.0%

The U.S. Gold and Silver Marking act allows for a variance of 3/1000 or 0.003 the fineness, so 24K can actually be 99.7% gold.

The United States prohibits metals less than 10K to be marketed and sold as gold in the U.S. Internationally these acceptable levels vary as Great Britain and Canada allow 9K to be marketed and sold as gold.

A variety of metals are used in alloying gold and in creating different colors of gold and give designs a host of tones and hues to use in their designs. Nickel and zinc are commonly used to alloy white gold and copper is added to gold to create pink or red gold. Although available in a rainbow of colors: pink, green, blue, gray, purple and even peach, the most popular color complements many skin tones and is yellow gold. South Africa is the worlds leading supplier of gold, followed by the United States and Canada.

Platinum

Its History
Named by the 16th century Spanish conquistadors in South America, platinum’s rarity, beauty, and physical properties combined make it the most noble and precious metal of all precious metals. In the mid 1700s the first samples of platinum ore made its journey from South America to Europe, however, it wasn’t used in the jewelry industry until French jeweler, Cartier first created platinum jewelry in the 1890s. Platinum soon became a symbol of status, luxury, and elegance, growing in popularity through the Edwardian era (1890-1915), during the 1920s and 1930s Art Deco era, and continued despite the U.S. Depression. When World War II began, platinum was declared as a strategic metal. Its high resistance to corrosion made it a perfect metal choice for the production of jet aircraft engines and platinum was banned from jewelry manufacturing use, until after the war. Many women engaged before WWII wore diamond engagement rings set in platinum, however when they were married during the war, platinum wasn’t available and they were given a wedding band made to resemble platinum - white gold.

After the war, platinum continued to be seen as the choice metal for showcasing large diamonds and important jewelry. In the past decade the world has experienced a tremendous appreciation and rise in popularity of platinum jewelry. Today, platinum is used in all types of jewelry, at various prices. Prized for its beauty, rarity, and purity, platinum used in jewelry is 90-95% pure platinum alloyed with another platinum group metal such as iridium, palladium, ruthenium, or rhodium. In comparison, 14K (karat) gold is 58.5% pure, 18K gold is 75% pure, and sterling silver is 92.5% pure. Because platinum is pure, it will not tarnish, react with chlorine or cause allergic reactions.

Since first discovered in 1924, South Africa has been become the world’s leading producer of platinum ore. Platinum is rare and about 2.8 million ounces of platinum are mined each year versus 50 million ounces of gold and 400 million ounces of silver. Ten tons of ore is required to produce one ounce of platinum. Extremely durable, resistant to corrosion, and ductile (ability to be drawn into wire) are the characteristics that make platinum a perfect metal for use in manufacturing delicate and intricate jewelry designs. Because of platinum’s hardness (jewelry prongs and settings are long-lasting) and overall wear-ability, platinum is an ideal metal use in setting diamonds, and showing off gemstones.

Silver

Silver A great fashion statement and accessory, affordable, and available in a vast selection of designs from ethnic motifs to contemporary avant-garde styles, silver jewelry continues to capture the attention of women around the world and increase in popularity year after year. With its bright white color and ability to be polished to a beautiful shine, silver has adorned mankind since ancient times and also been used as a form of money. Silver is the most reflective of all precious metals and silver earrings tend to light up a woman’s face.

Less expensive than gold or platinum, sterling silver is an excellent choice for a first-time jewelry purchase and allows the wearer to own several rings, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings that can mix and match to her wardrobe. Silver jewelry is fun to wear and you’ll find a variety of styles and designs from trendy sterling anklets and toe rings to sophisticated and sleek neck collars, bracelets and earrings.

Few Silver cleaning methods people use.

Silver polish and a toothbrush, or flannel cloth should get your necklaces shiny bright. Silver polish is kind of pasty/ goopy. Coat the necklaces really thoroughly, leave it for 5 minutes or so, scrub it lightly with the toothbrush and rinse in warm water. You may need to do some spot scrubbing after that. It's pretty easy.

Take a large pot (not non-stick), and line the inside with aluminum foil. Put in 8 cups of water, 1/4 cup baking soda, 1/4 cup salt, and 1/4 cup liquid dish soap, and stir it a little. Place your sterling silver jewelry into the solution. Bring to a simmer for a few minutes. Then turn off the burner and let it sit for another couple of minutes. Then using a colander or strainer, pour out the solution. Rinse with cold water. Count your items as you place them on a towel to dry. Make sure you’ve account for all your jewelry before you throw away the aluminum. It will be dirty because the oxides on your jewelry were transferred to it. Your sterling silver jewelry should now look like new!

This is easy and fast, and all natural! Get a tin pie plate and line the bottom with aluminum foil. Sprinkle some baking soda on the tin foil, and lay your necklace on it. Boil a little water and pour it over the tin foil. Voila! Your necklace will be shiny in seconds.

I think you can soak it in a water/baking soda solution. Or, use baking soda and a tiny bit of water (to make a paste) and a drop of dish detergent, and use that paste on a toothbrush to clean your chains.

Diamonds

Diamonds reside in a prestigious class all their own, with a history that dates back to the 15th century. The first recorded diamond engagement ring was bestowed to the fiancée of an Austrian prince in 1477. From this time forward, diamonds have been the representation of love and promise of marriage. Over the years, people began to purchase diamonds to celebrate important events in their lives such as anniversary, marriages, achievements, and engagements, or to simply reveal an expression of love. Technological advances have allowed for accurate cutting, polishing and finishing of diamonds. These improvements are responsible for the vast number of styles and cuts that are on the market today. This wide variety of gems and price ranges will easily fulfill everyone’s taste and budget.

The 4C’s
The four Cs are defined standards of comparison that allow for the buying and selling of this precious gemstone. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) created a universally accepted diamond grading system based on the four Cs of the diamond:

carat weight, color, clarity, and cut.

Carat weight Refers to the unit of weight used for diamonds and other gemstones articulated in carats. 100 points equals to 1 carat.

Color is defined by the amount of body color in the diamond. The grades for color indicate the amount (saturation) of color and range from colorless (D) to very saturated (Z). Colorless diamonds are rare and most diamonds have a very slight hint of yellow, brown or gray. The increased popularity of diamonds with some body color, has given rise to the prettier brown shades being sold as “champagnes” and “cognacs”. Diamonds that have a body color other than light yellow or light brown (for example: pink, red, blue, green, or orange) are referred to as “fancy” diamonds and are graded differently. GIA Grading Scale (Fancy colored diamonds not included): GIA Color Grade Definition

D E F	G H I J	K L M	N O P Q R	S T U V W X Y Z	Z+
Colorless	Near colorless	Faint Yellow	Very light yellow	Light yellow	FancyYellow

Example:

Clarity defines the absence or presence of external (blemishes) characteristics and internal (inclusions) features under the jewelry industry standard of magnification, 10 power (10x). The quantity of inclusions along with their size, color, relief and location determines a diamond’s clarity grade. These characteristics also can impact a diamond’s durability and beauty. Clarity grades range from flawless (FL) to heavily included. Flawless diamonds are very rare and practically all diamonds have inclusions. Every diamond is unique and its inclusions are actually identifying characteristics. SI (slightly included) and I (included) clarity grades are less rare, commonly used in jewelry and more affordable.

GIA Clarity scale: (all grades based on 10x magnification)


FL	IF	WS1 WS2	VS1 VS2	SI1 SI2	l1 l2 l3
Flawless	Internally Flawless	Very, Very Slightly Inclusions	Very Slight Inclusions	Slight Inclusions	Imperfect

Cut has two implications. The term cut sometimes refers to the shape of a stone, for example: round, oval, pear, marquise, heart or emerald. More commonly and importantly, cut or “make” refers to a diamond’s proportions, the correlation between its size (carat weight), shape, and cutting angles. Finish describes a diamond’s facet symmetry and polish. Cut is important because it impacts a diamond’s ability to redirect light through it and back to your eye. Cut is the main reason why some diamonds look lively and others appear dull or watery. Brilliancy or sparkle refers to the flashes of white light reflecting off a diamond. Dispersion or fire is the term that describes the flashes of rainbow colors that diamonds have. The cut of a diamond is essential in achieving the maximum light return and directly influences the diamond’s beauty. Historically diamonds were purchased by a man for a woman, either as a gift or to symbolize a wedding engagement. However today, with a majority of women in the workforce, they are a popular self-purchase item.

Taking care of your Jewelry

General Information
Caring for jewelry is a necessary part of owning the jewelry. With proper care, your jewelry will bring you continued satisfaction of ownership over the years. We are bringing you this information to help you know how to care for your jewelry and get that lasting satisfaction. Some tips to remember when caring for your jewelry include: Avoid wearing fine jewelry when you're performing manual labor tasks, such as housework. Clean your jewelry periodically. This will help ensure its fine appearance and will help it last. To clean, use warm soapy water (use a non detergent soap) to soak your jewelry. Use a soft brush to help remove dirt on the prongs of larger gem jewelry. Use plain alcohol or vodka to help reduce greasy film on diamond jewelry prior to any other cleaning done.

Cultured Pearl Information

Cultured pearls have a living organism origin. They are highly susceptible to damage and are very delicate; cultured pearl jewelry owners should be careful with their cultured pearls. Some tips to remember when caring for cultured pearls include Be careful where you store your cultured pearl jewelry. Metal and other materials can damage the surface of the cultured pearl. Cleaning cultured pearls need only involve soap and water. Other cleaning agents may damage your cultured pearls. Remove traces of cosmetics and other such materials from your cultured pearl jewelry before placing it in its storage place. Wrap your cultured pearl jewelry in a tissue or other suitable holding device before placing it in its storage place. You should take your cultured pearl jewelry back to your jeweler for restringing once a year.

Terminology

Definitions Associated with diamonds and colored stones

Real
This term is often used in referencing a natural gemstone, however, the term is misleading as it simply means that a material exists or has physical presence.

Natural
A gemstone formed by nature that has a specific chemical composition (for example, diamond is made of crystallized carbon), physical properties (for example, diamond is hard and doesn’t scratch easily), and optical characteristics (for example, diamond typically sparkles and appears fiery when exposed to light). Gemstones can either be formed inorganically like crystals or they can originate, organically, from a living thing such as pearls are formed in mollusks (oysters).

Synthetic (lab created)
A laboratory grown material that essentially has the same physical, optical and chemical properties associated with a natural gemstone. For example, a synthetic ruby is a manmade material that is very similar in appearance and has essentially the same optical and chemical properties of natural ruby.

Simulant or Imitation:
A material that resembles a natural gemstone in appearance only. For example, a simulant or imitation pearl looks like a natural or cultured pearl, however it is not composed of the same material as pearl, nor has its properties. A cubic zirconium might look like a diamond, but doesn’t have diamond’s chemical composition, physical or optical properties.

Coins

THE HISTORY OF COINS
A century ago many people walked around with gold coins in their pockets and used them to pay for goods and services. The British had the Sovereign, the French the Napoleon, the Americans the Eagle. But with the demise of the gold standard in the early part of this century, gold coins became essentially a collector’s item. From 1970 that trend was reversed. Gold coins today may not be used to pay bills, but they have become part of the portfolio of many investors. The concept of the bullion coin, a legal tender coin made by government mints and sold at a low premium, as opposed to numismatic coins for collectors, was pioneered by South Africa’s Krugerrand. It enabled the small investor to buy an ounce of gold at very close to the spot price. Usually the markup was around 5 - 7%; nowadays it is often less. The Krugerrand caught the imagination of investors, especially in West Germany and the United States during the inflationary days of the late 1970s and early ’80s, and became a significant factor in gold demand. In its best year, 1978, almost 200 tons of gold, or nearly 28% of South Africa’s output, went into Krugerrands. Its success spawned other bullion coins: Australia’s Nugget, Austria’s Philharmoniker, Britain’s Britannia, Canada’s Maple Leaf, and the United States’ Eagle. China also joined in with the Panda. (These bullion coins rather deposed Mexico’s 50-pesos Centenario and Austria’s 100 Corona, both restricts which had been investors’ favorites in the early 1970s.) Their appeal was widened with the introduction of 1/4 ounce, 1/2 ounce and 1/10 ounce versions. In the two decades since 1970, bullion coins accounted for over 14% of all newly-mined gold, with over 60 million in circulation. Thus, the gold coin has secured a broad niche in the regular pattern of gold demand. This has been further developed by special issues such as the Hirohito coin in 1986, which commemorated the 60th anniversary of the accession of Emperor Hirohito of Japan. In all, almost 200 tons of gold were used in the coin, despite the fact that, unlike bullion coins, it commanded a premium of more than 150% on the gold content. The Japanese followed this in 1991 with the Akihito coin, using 56 ton's, and in 1993 with the Royal Wedding coin, using 36 tons. The prime success of the bullion coins has been in Europe and the United States. But the coins’ fortunes are often tied up with local tax advantages. Initially, the Krugerrand was a great hit both in Britain and West Germany because, unlike bullion bars, it was not liable to value added tax. But once tax was introduced, local sales slumped, and purchases were diverted more through Luxembourg, Switzerland and the Channel Islands. However, Germany removed tax from gold at the close of 1992, leading to a revival of bullion coin and kilo bar sales there. Bullion coins have also become popular in the Far East in the last few years. The Nugget and the Maple Leaf have now become well established with investors in Hong Kong. India has also become a new market for coins, locally made medallions and small bars since 1992, when restrictions on the import of gold and the holding of coins and bars were lifted. The U.S. Eagle, launched in 1986, reverted to 916 gold but it was principally aimed at US investors to provide them with an American alternative to the foreign coins. It is made only with gold mined in the United States. The British Britannia, which also uses 916 gold, was first produced by the Royal Mint in 1987. It is in competition with the Sovereign (containing 0.2354 ounces of gold) which replaced the gold guinea in 1816. Previously sold at a high premium over the gold price, today's Sovereigns are marketed through the Bank of England at a premium close to that of bullion coins. China produced the first Panda coins, which are 999.9 fine, in 1982. They are half proof quality and the design changes each year, which has contributed to its popularity. Some of the classic coins, such as the Swiss Vreneli, which are in limited supply, have once again become popular. As bullion coins created a new market for gold so the appeal of small bars grew. These were pioneered by Credit Suisse and proved successful in the Middle East, where bullion coins had never really caught on. The idea was expanded by the Pamp refinery in Switzerland whose most famous bar, the Fortuna, depicting the Roman goddess of fortune, sold nearly 30 tons of 1 gram to 50 gram bars in its best year. The success of the Fortuna bar prompted other refineries around the world to come up with variations on the same theme. Hong Kong’s tail (1 tael = 1.2 troy ounce = 38 grams) bars, of which the smaller ones are shaped like an elegant slipper, are also popular. Small bars are seen both as investment and jewelry items, and together with a low mark-up, this is much of the secret of their success. The smaller gold coins (especially the fractional ounce versions) are also used in jewelry, for example as cuff-links. Together, bullion coins and small bars have established a firm base in the gold market and regularly absorb 100 - 200 tons of gold annually. They have an important role in the continued prosperity of the gold mining industry.*Gold Information Sheet No. 7 has been reprinted without permission of The World Gold Council. Please be sure to visit their site. You can find a link to The World Gold Council and many other links about gold and bullion coins on our Links page.

The World Gold Council is a non-profit association of gold producers world-wide, with headquarters in Geneva and offices in major markets around the world. World Gold Council, 1 rue de la Rôtisserie, CH-1204 Geneva 1, Switzerland.

Birthstones

January II Garnet II Capricorn / Aquarius
Associated as the sign of friendship, loyalty and devotion, garnet is the designated January birthstone and suggested gift for a 2nd wedding anniversary. Noah reportedly hung a large garnet inside the ark for illumination and garnet was believed to provide its wearer guidance in the night and protection from nightmares. The ancient Egyptians thought garnet to be the antidote for snakebites and food poisoning. Garnets naturally occur in several varieties and a range of warm colors: deep red and brownish red to reddish orange, slightly purplish red to reddish purple, yellowish orange, and pink to the vibrant yellowish greens and greens associated with the rarer, smaller, and more expensive garnet varieties: Demantoid and Tsavorite. Found in Kenya, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, India, Australia and the United States, garnets are durable, brilliant and will give you years of pleasure. As with all gemstones, care should be taken to avoid scratches and sharp blows. Ultrasonic and steam cleaning are usually safe.

February II Amethyst II Aquarius / Pisces
Once thought to improve the complexion and prevent baldness, the plentiful, popular and well known amethyst is Februarys birthstone and the stone associated with the 6th wedding anniversary. Lore surrounds amethyst as the gemstone named after a maiden adored by the Greek god, Bacchus and legend holds that a wearer of amethyst will not fall victim to intoxication. In the 12th and 13th century France, people believed the stone protected them from treason and deceit. Long thought to symbolize protection, peace and tranquility, amethyst's purple is the color of royalty and is Oprah Winfrey’s favorite color. Found in a variety of sizes and predominantly in Brazil, Uruguay, Zambia and Namibia, this beautiful and affordable gemstone is a variety of quartz. It is durable to wear on a daily basis, although care should be taken to avoid heat or sudden temperature changes. As with all gemstones, care should be taken to avoid scratches and sharp blows. Ultrasonic cleaning is usually safe.

March II Aquamarine II Capricorn / Aquarius
This greenish blue to bluish green variety of the mineral beryl, has long symbolized youth, hope, health, fidelity, and is both the designated birthstone for March and the perfect gift for the 19th wedding anniversary. Named after the Greek word for saltwater, this light blue cousin to emerald and Morganite (a light purplish pink beryl), was once thought to magically conquer wickedness and aid in the treatment of respiratory ailments, hiccups and eye troubles. The possession of an aquamarine is said to give the owner courage, power over the devil, and strengthened will. More abundant and affordable than emerald, aquamarine is typically inclusion free and durable to wear every day. Primarily sources are China, Brazil, United States, Russia and Madagascar. As with all gemstones, care should be taken to avoid scratches and sharp blows. Ultrasonic and steam cleaning is usually safe.

April II Diamond II Aries / Taurus
Diamonds reside in a prestigious class all their own, with a history that dates back to the 15th century. The first recorded diamond engagement ring was bestowed to the fiancée of an Austrian prince in 1477. From this time forward, diamonds have been the representation of love and promise of marriage. Over the years, people began to purchase diamonds to celebrate important events in their lives such as anniversary, marriages, achievements, and engagements, or to simply reveal an expression of love. Technological advances have allowed for accurate cutting, polishing and finishing of diamonds. These improvements are responsible for the vast number of styles and cuts that are on the market today. This wide variety of gems and price ranges will easily fulfill everyone’s taste and budget.

May II Emerald II Taurus / Gemini
Symbolizing rebirth and youth, emerald is May’s birthstone, the traditional gift of 20th and 35th wedding anniversaries, and was once thought to empower the wearer to see into the future. As one of the most revered gemstones, emerald is the green variety of the mineral beryl, colored by chromium. Legends surround emerald and people once believed it to protect the wearer from evil spells, strengthen one’s memory, soothe tired eyes, and call forth the truth from a lover’s words.

First mined in southern Egypt, today’s leading high-quality emerald suppliers are Columbia, Brazil, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Tanzania. Most emeralds have internal characteristics, called inclusions and sometimes a grouping of these markings is referred to as “a garden”. Commonly oiled, emerald’s surface reaching fissures are often filled with a clear resin like substance. Both treatments enhance emerald’s color and appearance. As with all gemstones, care should be taken to avoid scratches and sharp blows. Ultrasonic, steam cleaning and commercial jewelry cleaners should be avoided.

June II Pearl of Alexandrite II Gemini / Cancer
Alexandrite is a beautiful, rare stone. It is very difficult to find natural Alexandrite. Most Alexandrite on the market are synthetic. Alexandrite rings are very beautiful. If Alexandrite is set in a ring, the wearer can watch the colors change. Alexandrite changes from green to red, mauve or brown in incandescent light. Alexandrite has a hardness rating of 8.5. Protect alexandrite from scratches, sharp blows, harsh chemicals and extreme temperatures. Be especially careful when getting this stone remounted as the heat from a jewelers torch may affect its color change. There are many many synthetic alexandrite on the market. Natural alexandrite is very rare. Alexandrite is found in Brazil, Madagascar, Myanmar, Russia, Sri Lanka and Zimbabwe.

July II Ruby II Cancer / Leo
Associated with fire and passion, ruby is July's birthstone, the traditional gift for the 15th and 40th wedding anniversaries, and was once thought to be “the king of gems” by the people of ancient India. The most treasured of all red colored gemstones, ruby is the orange red to purplish red variety of corundum and is named from a Latin derivative meaning red. Colored by chromium, this cousin to sapphire was once believed to bring the wearer health, wealth, wisdom, and success in love. Ruby's protective powers are supposedly intensified when set in jewelry and worn on the left side. It is no wonder why ruby jewelry is commonly given as a Valentine Day gift.

Large, high quality rubies are rare; therefore smaller gems (under 0.25 ct.) are more commonly seen. Mined throughout Southeast Asia; key ruby sources are Thailand, Vietnam, Sri Lanka and Myanmar (Burma). The more intense red a ruby is, the more desirable, therefore a majority of rubies are heat treated to permanently improve their color and appearance. As with all gemstones, care should be taken to avoid scratches and sharp blows. Ultrasonic and steam cleaning are usually safe.

August II Peridot II Leo / Virgo
Once believed to be a powerful amulet to ward off evil, nightmares and an effective remedy for sinus problems if crushed and ingested, peridot is the designated that August birthstone and the suggested gemstone for the 16th wedding anniversary. Ranging in color from light yellowish green to a deep yellowish brownish green, Hawaiian legend calls peridot, the tears shed by Pele, the goddess of the volcano. The French are accredited with naming this peridot, from the Arabic word, faridat, which means gem. Today’s production is mined primarily in the China, United States (Arizona), Myanmar (Burma), and on St. John’s Island, Zebriget. As with all gemstones, care should be taken to avoid household chemicals, scratches and sharp blows. Ultrasonic cleaning is usually safe. Avoid steam cleaning.

September II Sapphire II Virgo / Libra
Rubies are red. Sapphires are commonly known as blue—but not always. This variety of corundum naturally occurs in a rainbow of fancy colors (purple, pink, orange, yellow, green and all shades between), although blue remains the most popular and well known. Designated as September’s birthstone, the traditional gift for 5th and 45th wedding anniversaries, blue sapphire, colored by iron, was once worn by kings to protect them from harm and envy.Named after the Latin word sapphirus, for blue, sapphire was believed to be an antidote of poison in ancient times and had powers to heal eye diseases. Magicians delighted in the gemstone’s apparent ability to command spirits. Princess Diana is attributed for increasing sapphire’s treasured position in the public’s eye when she selected a blue sapphire for her engagement ring. Women around the world followed her lead.

Connoisseurs believe Kashmir, the area of India to be the source of the finest, intense blue sapphires. However, the supply is limited. Today a majority of the world’s production comes from Thailand, Sri Lanka, Myanmar (Burma) and Australia. As with any colored gemstone, the purer and more intensely colored the sapphire is, the more valuable. Sapphires are commonly enhanced to permanently improve their color and appearance through controlled heat treatment. As with all gemstones, care should be taken to avoid scratches and sharp blows. Ultrasonic and steam cleaning are usually safe.

October II Opal II Libra / Scorpio
The Greeks and Romans believed it symbolized hope, innocence, and purity, and some thought opal embodied the spirit of truth. Opal is the designated birthstone for October, symbolizes the 14th wedding anniversary, and Shakespeare regarded it as “the queen of gems.” The old wives’ tale about opal bringing bad luck originated in the 1800s when Sir Walter Scott published a novel about a heroine had bad luck while wearing her opal, hence some people regarded opal as unlucky. The ancient Arabs believed opal landed from heaven on the bolts of lightning, however, Australia is the main source of production followed by Mexico, Brazil and the United States. Available in a wide range of color variations, opal is typically white in body color with rainbow sparkles (play-of-color). The more rare black opal with rainbow play-of-color and large red flashes is the most expensive and prized. As with all gemstones, care should be taken to avoid household chemicals, scratches and sharp blows. Keep opals away from extremely cold and hot temperatures and out of intense sunlight. Avoid steam cleaning, commercial jewelry cleaners and ultrasonic cleaners.

November II Citrine or Precious Topaz II Scorpio / Sagittarius
Citrine
Derived from the French word for lemon, this yellow to golden orange hued member of the quartz family is a cousin to amethyst and an alternative birthstone for November and the designated gemstone symbolizing the 13th wedding anniversary. Once carried as a charm warding off snakebites, citrine was also believed to protect the wearer from the plague, bad skin and evil thoughts. Today citrine is plentiful, affordable and its warm shades complement many wardrobes and skin tones. Citrine is commonly confused with precious golden topaz, however the gemstones have different gemological properties, characteristics, and precious golden topaz is rare and therefore more expensive. Although practically all citrine is heat treated to enhance its golden color, it is durable and can be worn on a daily basis. Found primarily in Brazil, citrine is now being mined in Bolivia. As with all gemstones, care should be taken to avoid scratches and sharp blows. Ultrasonic cleaning is usually safe.

Topaz
Precious golden topaz, the birthstone for November symbolizes the 23rd wedding anniversary and is named for “Topazios” (renamed Zabargad) an island in the Red Sea. Over the years people have called many yellow gemstones (such as golden sapphire, citrine, and even yellowish peridot) “topaz” and some confusion still exists today. To eliminate the confusion, the term “precious topaz” distinguishes it. The ancient Greeks believed topaz could ward off enchantment, dispel sadness, assure beauty, and strengthen intellect. The finest precious topaz is mined in Brazil and occurs in many natural colors (yellows, yellowish green, pink, red, purple, blue and colorless).

Natural blue topaz is rare, except in lighter tones, so the inexpensive, abundant colorless topaz is color enhanced blue through an intense irradiation (safe and permanent) and heat treatment. Blue topaz is an alternative birthstone for December and signifies the 4th wedding anniversary. As with all gemstones, care should be taken to avoid scratches and sharp blows can damage topaz. Avoid sudden temperature changes, household chemicals, ultrasonic and steam cleaning.

December II Turquoise, Blue Topaz II Sagittarius / Capricorn
Topaz
Topaz is a light blue stone. It is less expensive than aquamarine, and looks like aquamarine. It looks beautiful in rings, bracelets, necklaces, and pendants. Topaz comes in many colors such as blue, yellow, pink, brown, green and clear. Orange-red "Imperial" topaz is rare. Topaz has a hardness of 8.

As with all gems, protect topaz from scratches and sharp blows. Also avoid large temperature changes (such as leaving it be a heater vent or in a hot car). Do not clean topaz in a home ultrasonic cleaner. The best way to clean topaz is warm soapy water. Clear topaz is commonly irradiated and heat treated to become other colors such as blue. Yellow and brown topaz is often heat treated to become pink topaz. Natural pink topaz is rare. Reputable dealers will not use the following misleading terms. However, for your protection, I am listing them here: "Bohemian Topaz", "Madeira Topaz" and "Occidental topaz" are really yellow quartz (also known as citrine). "Nevada topaz" is really smoky obsidian. "Spanish topaz" is really orange-brown quartz.

Topaz is found in Africa, Australia, Brazil, China, Japan, Mexico, Myanmar, Nigeria, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Russia, and USA (Colorado, Maine and Utah).

Turquoise
Turquoise's color ranges from sky blue to green. It has a hardness of 6. Howlite is often dyed to imitate turquoise. Turquoise made in a laboratory has a very uniform color. Chalky varieties of turquoise are often coated with wax or oil to enhance color - and when treated like this, the color change is not permanent. Turquoise is often fracture sealed. This doesen't mean that it has fractures, it means that it was seal ed with an acrylic resin to enhance it's color, texture, and hardness. Turquoise is somewhat soft so avoid scratches and sharp blows. To be certain and coatings are not removed also avoid hot water and household chemicals.

Reputable dealers will not use the following misleading terms. However, for your protection, I am listing them here: "Vienna turquoise" is really a glass imitation. Turquoise is found in Australia, Chile, Iran, Mexico, Tibet, USA (Arizona , California and New Mexico).

Gems

	Amethyst		Pearl
	Aquamarine		Peridot
	Diamond		Ruby
	Emerald		Sapphire
	Garnet		Topaz
	Opal		Turquoise

Origin

The royal purple amethyst has one of the most interesting histories of any gemstone. Ever since mankind first discovered amethyst around 3000 B.C., this accessible gemstone has been believed to possess a wide variety of amulet qualities and properties. The ancient Egyptians believed amethyst could keep a person from being poisoned. In medieval times, amethyst was often put under one's pillow to cure insomnia and bring pleasant dreams. Medieval churchmen used amethyst rings and jewels to promote divine revelations and wisdom, since amethyst was considered a symbol of Christian love and sacrifice. Amethyst also was said to enhance courage and creativity, to promote intuition, psychic development and even self-esteem, to deflect anger, and protect the wearer against evil.

Through the ages this lovely purple member of the quartz family has been used for everything from love charms to symbols of royalty. Yet, for all its noble traditions, amethyst is a surprisingly affordable gem.

Amethysts that are heat treated retain their color remarkably well, but it's still wise to keep any amethysts away from strong heat and steam cleaning. Heat treating is a stable and accepted process, which has been used by the jewelry industry for thousands of years. However, when buying any colored gemstone, ask if the stone is of natural origin or if it has been treated in any way to enhance its beauty.

Traditionally associated with royalty and luxury, the amethyst has become the February birthstone in this century. Amethyst is tough and durable, wears well, and gives modern men and women the look of royalty at very affordable prices.

History

Bacchus, the god of wine and conviviality, was angry because of some slight against him and swore revenge. He announced that the first mortal to come across his path would be eaten by tigers. Just at that moment along came the lovely maiden Amethyst, on her way to worship at the shrine of the goddess Diana. Diana saw what was happening and transformed Amethyst into stone to rescue her from a violent heath. When Bacchus viewed the miracle, he repented and poured wine over the stone, staining it purple. This is the legendary creation of the gemstone amethyst.

The word "amethustos" means "not drunk." The ancient Greeks believed that whoever wore this stone would be protected against the intoxicating effect of wine. Whether or not the Greeks held the key to sobriety is open to question. Roman women, however, claimed the gem could keep their husbands faithful.

Amethyst in the Bible

The Bible tells us of a jeweled breastplate worn by Aaron, the high priest of the Hebrews. It contained twelve precious stones. The amethyst was the third stone in the third row. In the New Testament, these stones became the foundation of the New Jerusalem described in Revelation. Each gemstone was identified with a prophet. The amethyst stood for Math's, who had the gift of tongues and was filled with the desire to please God.

A Royal Gemstone

Amethyst is a variety of 'quartz which occurs in a transparent light to dark purple. It has long been treasured by kings and queens as well as high figures in religious sects because of its rich, royal color can be traced back to the Minoan period in Greece (c. 2500 B.C.) when it was found as polished cabochons (dome-shaped stones) set in gold. It is represented in many artistic eras since then.

During the 15th century the French fleur-de-lis brooch could only be worn by the Royal family on ceremonial occasions. The one surviving example of this art form is part of the Royal regalia of France. The fleur-de-lis design on it is set with sapphires and amethysts.

Amethysts were popular in the parures (matching sets) of the 1820's. They were a favorite medium for Art Nouveau craftsmen and are still favorites of the most creative modern jewelry designers. A major reason for their popularity in jewelry design has been their wide availability and modest price. Large, fine pieces were always easily attainable and lent themselves to freedom of design. It is only in the last few years that fine quality amethyst has become somewhat scarce.

Today the two main sources of amethyst are Brazil and Zambia. It is also found in Uruguay, Russia, Sri Lanka, Mexico, Zimbabwe-Rhodesia and our own state of Arizona. With the increasing scarcity of fine amethyst, a manmade duplicate has come onto the market. Amethyst is always desirable, but when fashion includes the rich palette of lilacs, lavenders and royal purples, its popularity soars. The Artist's Touch Amethyst is fashioned in a number of different ways. It is faced or polished into a cabochon for rings, pendants, earrings and cuff links. It may be carved into violet petals for a pendant or earrings or into a cluster of grapes for a brooch. Beads of amethyst are strung in various lengths, sometimes polished, sometimes not. They may be combined with gold beads, pearls, rock crystal or other colored stone beads. Amethysts look especially rich when set in gold and accented with diamonds.

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